I always prefer living in a city because I feel like there is so much happening all of the time, however, every now and again I crave a slower pace of living. I feel like it is a good way to refresh my mind and come up with new ideas and inspirations. Whenever I feel like I need a creative retreat from Yerevan, I head to Gyumri. Even though it is the second largest city in Armenia it is more of a small artsy town which I love. It has been home to a lot of artists as well which makes sense because it is the perfect balance of quiet yet interesting. There are not as many new buildings as there are in Yerevan in fact there are numerous abandoned and empty buildings in the old part of Gyumri due to the Spitak earthquake in the 80s. I have always found abandoned buildings so enchanting which is probably why I find Gyumri so interesting. However, if you don’t know where to go you might miss all of the treasures that are hidden within this tiny city. Here are a few of the things you must see or do even if you only have a day to spend in Gyumri.
Herbs and Honey
For breakfast or morning tea you have to go to Herbs and Honey. It is a darling teashop in the heart of the city. They have an extensive list of loose leaf tea accompanied by local honey and fresh healthy meals. The initiative started in 2012 when the founders learned that 500 hectares of forest would be destroyed due to mining. They set out to create an alternative economic solution. Through producing honey, they were able to preserve the land and create enough economic support. Then they opened up this café in Gyumri to provide an additional outlet. The desire to protect the beautiful flora and fauna of this region is manifested in this little café. Dried bundles of wildflowers and herbs hang everywhere and painted floral designs grace the white walls. The space is so delightful that you will probably want to spend the whole afternoon here.
Soviet Amusement Park
There is the old soviet amusement park that I thought was abandoned when I first visited in the winter and then I was told it was just closed for the season, but it opens up every summer. When I learned this I was a bit surprised as these rides look a bit scary and like they might break down at any moment. I simply enjoyed wandering around the park looking at these relics.
Gwoog Gastrohouse
If you want home-cooked authentic Armenian food then I highly suggest you check out Gwoog Gastrohouse. The place is rather small, but welcoming. It is owned and operated by a husband and wife team who love to take care of each guest. It almost feels like you are in their house for an intimate family dinner. The prices are very affordable with almost everything on the menu being under $10. Since there is limited seating I would recommend you book a reservation on their website in advance.
Gyumri Doors
One of my favorite things to see in Gyumri is all of the different doors. I know this sounds a bit odd, but Gyumri is famous for all of their beautiful doors. Some are a part of newer buildings and some are a part of abandoned buildings, however each one is unique with character. I could spend all day taking pictures of the different doors for design inspiration.
Cherkezi Dzor
For dinner there is this amazing hidden gem called Cherkezi Dzor. It is a bit out of the city so you will need to take a cab, but it is definitely worth it. It is a fish-farm restaurant located in a grove. The grounds are so magical and picturesque you will feel like you are walking into a fairytale. There is a lot of outdoor and open air dining that makes this a perfect summer dinner spot.
Gyumri is a special place with friendly locals, intriguing architecture, and just the right pace for a relaxing getaway.